Wednesday, August 29, 2018

I ENCOUNTERED A "KOOK" WHILE BODY SURFING @ REDONDO "10 Surf Terms You ABSOLUTELY Need To Know;) " Degree 33 Surfboards

I was happily body surfing all by myself at redondo beach when some Latino kid went out of his way to come out by me to body surf next to me when there was PLENTY of space up and down the beach to be alone...so he approached me and said, "THIS IS GNARLY"  as if I spoke that kind of stupid surfing lingo..as if I was some dumb white boy who body surfs all day long with nothing better to do... as if he had watched a few too many old surf movies... WHO SAYS GNARLY ANYMORE ? AT least not me..and he DIDN'T even really know how to body surf.., there IS AN ART & SKILL to good body surfing..it's not just splashing in the waves.. to TRULY BODY SURF you know how to find the "SWEET SPOT" of a wave..just like in tennis.. they used to say a racquet has a "sweet spot" (maybe they still do, IDK)... BUT now I know what to call a person like this who PRETENDS to be a "surfing dude"...you call them 'KOOKS" 

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JESUS SAVES !!